Tuesday 8 April 2008

Koh Chang

So after the tip off we followed our noses to Trat, where we were subject to one of the more popular scams here of a bus stopping at a "stop" and trying to get tourists out of the bus. This is actually just a hotel booking office that will proceed to charge you through the nose for the ferry transfer if you don't select one of their premium rate shacks! Once we had persuaded the chap that we did know where we were going and and that this wasn't it (the great big 21km to Trat sign didn't help his cause) he huffed and puffed a little and we finally arrived at the bus station...although we were still a sangthaew (big share taxi that leaves when it fills up), a ferry and another sangthaew away from our final destination. The ferry was particularly slow but it allowed us to properly enjoy the sunrise...something we have seen plenty of with our unearthly travel hours.

Om arrival at Whitesands Beach we intrepidly walked to the sea and turned right as per our tip off...after what seemed like miles we came across it and what a picture!

Independent Bo's is owned by Bo, a blinged up, Hells Angel loving, Thai guy (and his 2 or 3 brothers,) it is run by his Scottish wife Fiona who welcomed us lovingly with coffee, tea and a decent chat wen we arrived. I am not sure that we were expecting politics, religion and the state of the UK at 6am but that is what we got...we also met Phil, who had just come from trying to save the Tasmanian Eucalyptus Forest from somewhat dodgy goings on, who upon hearing we worked for BP was actually quite forgiving!! The huts are pretty basic with a bed, a fan, a loo and a cold shower (which is a barrel of water and a scoop!) Each is decorated individually which can range from elaborate sea-scapes to bright red colonial style buildings leading to them being the most photographed on the beach. You feel quite Hello! when lounging on the hammocks out front being snapped by every English, German, Swedish tourist that passes by.


Mighty beach huts


Our hut


Subtle signage

The huts however are not the main draw, it is both the fact that you can tumble out of bed into the sea and the vibe and people some with quite interesting back stories.

Once we had put the world top rights and Fiona had remembered which room to clean we dumped our stuff, showered, headed off for breakfast and then wiled away the rest of the day with dips in the sea, snoozing and scampering between bits of shade. That evening was Fiona's birthday and the lure of free food ensured our attendance at her party, it was a great way to spend our first night in a new place chatting about what and what not to do / go. Further chats with Phil and his lovely girlfriend Clotilde (the most cockney sounding French woman we have ever met!) and a fair few Singha meant that we weren't feeling too fresh for our boat trip the next day.


Phil demonstrating the height of some people taller than himself

Any party cobwebs we had were blown away within minutes of climbing into the boat, a speedboat on it's very first outing (you got the feeling the owner was having more than a little fun!) The first stop was Koh Wai where we spent an hour snorkelling and Bob you will pleased to hear I didn't repeat our back sunburn fiasco from Mexico!! The water was a little murky and the fish a little limited but I guess it is a tourist hotspot and we wern't expecting the barrier reef.

After a spot of lunch we were off to Koh Lo Yai whic is the closest we have come so far to paradise. The white sand beach was long enough for 12 of us to spread out and feel like we were all alone, the palms rustled in the gentle breeze and the turquoise water was blissfully cool and just right for a perfect romantic moment...if only we could have stayed there forever!


So isolated we had to train a monkey to take this


Cath on a swing!

The next couple of days wandered slowly by in the same manner as we relaxed. Breakfasts of fresh fruit, pineapple shakes, local 30Bhatt (50p) Pad Thai Noodles, snoozing, swimming and hammock laying. On our last big night we ventured to a beach bar offering fire twirlers galore, expensive cocktails and an eclectic mix of patrons this lead to us all sat at the bar bopping to a rather good Thai band version of EMF, The Buggles and Bob Marley, gawping at the various stereotypes. From our checklist we saw ladyboys (getting easier to spot) goodtime girls and their pimps, the pumped up Russian with Koh San Road braided hair, the US college frat-pack, the dad dancers and various other older gents and their Thai dates.


I do look a bit cool, don't I?


Proper Bo sunset

When it came to leave we were definitely sorry to go (although some pesky ants in our packs made it a little easier!) We were off again, back to pass through Bangkok again this time to fly down to Krabi which is the launchpad to Railei beach where Cath's brother Andrew stayed a number of years ago and raved about...this time however we are being more adventurous, so nowhere to stay and no idea...we'll just turn up and see.

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