Sunday 22 June 2008

Peru...well Cusco to be exact

After a rather lovely time in the Galapagos we had run out of time for any more Ecuador adventures, Peru and some Inca ruins awaited us. I also put my foot down with all these long South American bus journeys (2 hours is enough for me) and we opted to fly via Lima to Cusco. Good thing too as it would have been 30 hours by bus to Lima and then another 24 to Cusco (not my idea of a honeymoon) The problem with any flight to Cuso is that they all leave at 5am from Lima, so this meant a late night flight to Lima and then napping in the airport. This was by no means as bad as our Thailand experience and we met lots of people doing exactly what we were. I stayed awake and looked like I wanted another beer, while Simon dominated the only comfortable couch in the restaurant for a nap.



Lovely Cusco

Cusco was a lovely change from Quito. A very charming city with clean cobbled streets and cute little cafes and bars. Lots and lots of locals selling alpaca everything from hats to socks and everything in between. I am not surprised we instantly felt at home here, it is after all the tourist capital of South America and the quality and cost of things is an instant indicator. We opted to stay in the old town area called San Blas (the area with the most charm, but it is also up the hill and at 3500m you really feel it on the walk home) My first welcome to Cusco was being chased by a local and her two llamas. I had stopped to take a picture of the square and she was within the shot...she immediately ran over to me to demand money for taking pictures of her llamas. I refused (not really knowing that this is customary for this area) to which she insisted more. I walked away and she initiated pursuit with the two beasts in tow. Not an easy escape running up a hill with my backpack at altitude, but I never made that mistake again!


We stayed in a rather charming hostel called Casa de la Gringa - in the honeymoon suite! Best described as basic accommodation in the annex with a view of the street...the very noisy street! For some reason this particular quiet lane was patrolled at 3am by policemen who thought it was appropriate to blow their whistles to let us know they were there! Just as this had finished, the milk/bread man walked up the street ringing his bell to invite sales...and then the day began. Our comedy purchase of earplugs before we left the UK were put to good use here!


One of the biggest attractions of Cusco for us was meeting up with Mr Daniel Morris and his sidekick Dom. Coincidence meant we (travelling in opposite directions through SA) landed here at the same time. As you can imagine, this called for celebrations and a fair few beers were consumed that night. Dan was naturally on top form and he and Simon got all the mandatory Everton chatting out the way early. We had a largish drinking evening at the Irish Pub (those Irish are everywhere) reputedly the highest Irish Pub in the world. I cannot confirm the validity of the height claim, but I can confirm the best Shepherds pie I have had in a very, very long time.


When in Cusco an Inca trekking one must go, but with a 6month booking requirement, we didn´t do THE Inca trail. We managed to find what I thought was a good deal for an ´alternative.´ No sleeping in tents and biking the first of the 4 days! Oh how wrong I was! As we were all off doing some form of walking/ biking the next day, a much quieter night was had the second night. Definitely the first time I have seen Dan do the yawn-put-the-beer-down ´I have packing to do´at 9pm!


...back from Inca Trekking however this was not the Dan. What a massive night! I am still not sure he has recovered from all that partying. We on the other hand left the boys to it at about 8.30pm and headed off to Km0 for some really good Thai food and much needed packing time. So nice to have a backpack full of clean clothes, but that never lasts long as we are always off getting dirty on another trek soon. Cusco is rather cool and we should really have spent a few more days here, but at this rate we will never get to Bariloche to meet Andrew by the 14th July, so on we must go.

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